On the way back to Barcelona from El Serradell, we stopped in Besalú, a beautiful medieval town, approached by its noted Romanesque bridge over the river Fluviá. We walked around a bit, getting a general feel for the place, but didn't visit any of its sights, which include a Jewish synagogue and baths. It is clearly set up to accommodate large numbers of tourists, now conspicuously absent. In the middle ages, Besalú was the historical capitol of the Garrotxa comarca, with a different extent but similar size to the present-day county.
It was unrelentingly sunny and hot at midday but we lucked into a nice lunch at Restaurant Can Quei despite having done no research. Ed ate arroz con conejo with trompetes de la mort, literally "trumpets of death," which were delectable despite their scary name.