Ed and I left the kids in Poble Nou and drove to Miravet, another hill town a bit further up the Ebre from Tortosa. The town sits at a sharp bend in the Ebro and seems to hang above it, making it especially striking.
Like Besalu,which we visited almost exactly a year ago, the town is clearly set up as a stopping-off point for tourist buses, but it was quiet the day we visited.
It has a beautiful Templar castle (originally built by the Moors) just above the town which was all but deserted when we arrived mid-afternoon.
It had a beautiful spare sanctuary, with a mysteriously off-center window in its apse. We both admired the austere but fine new stonework which had been toothed in to shore up the structure in places.
Like any good castle, it offered great views — of the river and surrounding farmland.